Set up. Use a nonstick skillet with a lid (a clear lid is handy). If you have 3-inch ring molds, lightly oil them and line the insides with strips of parchment. No molds? No problem — you’ll just spoon tall mounds.

Make the yolk batter. In a medium bowl, whisk egg yolks, milk, and vanilla until smooth. Sift in flour, baking powder, and a pinch of salt. Whisk just until no dry spots remain. The batter will be thick but silky.

Whip the meringue. In a clean bowl, add egg whites and cream of tartar. Beat on medium until foamy, then gradually rain in the sugar. Increase to medium-high and beat to stiff, glossy peaks that hold their shape but still look creamy (not dry).

Fold gently. Stir one-third of the meringue into the yolk batter to loosen it. Then fold in the remaining meringue in two additions with a spatula, sweeping up from the bottom and turning the bowl. Stop as soon as it’s mostly uniform. A few small streaks are okay. Don’t overmix.

Preheat low and oil. Warm the skillet over low heat for a minute. Lightly oil the surface (and molds, if using).

Portion and steam. Spoon the batter into three mounds (or into molds), about 1/2 cup per pancake. If free-forming, pile it tall — think little snowdrifts. Add 1–2 tbsp water to the empty area of the pan (not on the batter). Cover and cook on low heat for 4–5 minutes. They’ll puff.

Add a second scoop. Lift the lid, quickly add a small spoonful of batter on top of each pancake to build height, and cover again. Cook 2 more minutes.

Flip with care. Slide a thin spatula under each pancake. If using molds, loosen edges and flip the whole thing, then lift off the mold. If free-form, use two spatulas if you like for support. Add a splash more water to the pan, cover, and cook 3–4 minutes more, until set but still jiggly.

Serve right away. These are best hot from the pan. Dust with powdered sugar, add berries, syrup, or a dollop of whipped cream. Breathe. Enjoy.