Proof the yeast (if using active dry): In a small bowl, stir the warm water with the yeast and sugar. Let it sit 5–10 minutes until foamy on top. If using instant yeast, you can skip this and mix it directly with the flour, then add the warm water.
Mix the dough: In a large bowl, combine the flour and salt. Add the yeast mixture (or water if using instant yeast) and the oil if using. Stir with a wooden spoon until a shaggy dough forms. It’ll look rough—that’s okay.
Quick rest (mini autolyse): Let the dough rest for 10 minutes. This short pause lets the flour hydrate and makes kneading easier. Grab a sip of coffee, or just enjoy the quiet.
Knead: Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Knead by hand for 8–10 minutes, or in a stand mixer with a dough hook for 5–6 minutes on medium-low. The dough should become smooth, elastic, and just slightly tacky. If it’s sticking like glue, dust in a teaspoon of flour at a time; if it’s tight and dry, sprinkle a few drops of water and keep going.
First rise: Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, turning once to coat. Cover with a clean towel or plastic wrap and let it rise at room temperature until doubled, 60–90 minutes. On a chilly day, set it near a sunny window or in a turned-off oven with the light on.
Shape: Gently deflate the dough and turn it out onto a floured surface. For a classic batard (oval loaf), flatten the dough into a rectangle, fold the top third down and the bottom third up (like a letter), then roll it into a tight log, pinching the seam shut. Taper the ends slightly for that French-bread look. You can also divide into two smaller loaves or shape into a baguette if you’re feeling fancy.
Second rise: Place the shaped loaf seam-side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet (or a floured tea towel if you have a baking stone). Lightly cover and let rise until puffy and slightly springy to the touch, 30–45 minutes. Not quite doubled, but noticeably fuller.
Preheat and steam setup: About 30 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). If you have a baking stone or steel, preheat it too. Place an empty metal pan on a lower rack—this will be your steam pan.
Score: Just before baking, use a sharp knife or lame to make 3–4 diagonal slashes about 1/4 inch deep across the top. This helps the loaf expand in the oven and gives that classic pattern. Be decisive—quick, smooth cuts.
Bake with steam: Slide the loaf into the oven. Carefully add a handful of ice cubes or a cup of hot water to the empty pan to create steam, then close the door quickly. Bake for 20 minutes, then reduce heat to 425°F (220°C) and bake another 10–15 minutes, until deeply golden and the loaf sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom. Internal temperature should be about 205–210°F (96–99°C).
Cool (yes, really): Transfer to a wire rack and let the bread cool at least 30 minutes. The crust will crackle as it cools, and the interior finishes setting. Cutting too soon can make it gummy—patience pays off.